Monday, February 17, 2014

Edinbuddah!

Apparently it's not "Edinburrow" or "Edinburg" or even "Edinbro" - it's "Edinbuddah!" It's also where the boy and I happened to spend our first full weekend in Scotland.

Things got off to a bumpy start. We'd booked our train tickets online a few days prior. On Saturday morning we strolled to the train station closest to us to pick them up - about ten minutes before we were due to depart Glasgow. Plenty of time, yes?

No. Because the man who processed our tickets kindly informed us that our train was supposed to leave from a different station, one about half a mile away. D'oh!

So we made a break for it, backpacks and baseball hats and all. Two idiots sprinting down high street at 9 in the morning. I was very aware and deeply ashamed of how stupid (and how distinctively American) we must have looked. But we made our train in time. So I regret nothing.

An hour later we pulled into Waverley station and made our way to the meet up spot of the Sandeman's walking tour. Our colleagues had recommended this tour group to us and we had found the idea very intriguing: unlike almost all the other tour offerings, this two and a half-hour walking tour had no upfront cost whatsoever. Instead, the self-employed guides were only paid in optional tips at the end of the tour based on whatever value the tourists felt they had received. Thus the guides had a large economic incentive to perform well.

IMG_5242
I think Adam Smith would have approved of the Sandeman economic model.
Our tour guide's name was James and perform he did. He was a seasoned Edinburgher (Edinburghian? Edinbourgeois?), a captivating storyteller,  and an all-around nice guy. Over the course of the tour we heard a lot about Edinburgh's history (in a nutshell: lots of squabbling with the Brits) and quirks (in a nutshell: everyone loves Robert Burns and haggis).

IMG_5247
John Knox, founder of the Presbytarian denomination in Edinburgh, is buried under spot 23 in a cathedral parking spot
IMG_5250
Many narrow alleyways off the Royal Mile led to buildings or squares that otherwise were impossible to spot.
IMG_5244
The market center, where dishonest merchants had their ears nailed to wooden doors back in the good ole days.
We also passed by the castle but decided to skip the pricey entrance fee and lengthy tour. Another weekend, perhaps.

IMG_5256
IMG_5272
Is it possible to look more touristy?
The highlight of the tour for me was when James pointed out the cafe where J.K. Rowling spent many a day writing about the adventures of a special boy named Harry...

IMG_5303
Holy grounds
Of course, I had to stop in for a pot of tea and see what it was like. Didn't walk away particularly inspired to write, though.

IMG_5279
IMG_5275

Our tour also led us to Greyfriar's Kirkyard just a few minutes away. Bonus points if you can spot the Harry Potter-esque last name that has been immortalized by a professor at Hogwarts!

The tour wrapped up right as Mother Nature decided it was time to rain, as she is so wont to do in Scotland. We said goodbye to our group, gave James a big ole tip, and ducked into a pub for haggis and a pint. This was my first time eating haggis. It tasted like the Scottish version of a hotdog and was much yummier than its name and reputation suggest.

Bellies full, legs rested and minds relaxed, we wandered into the gorgeous (and free!) National Museum of Scotland.

Dolly the sheep! Science is so cool.
IMG_5280
Very reminiscent of the Natural History Museum in DC
IMG_5300
Lewis chessmen from the Medieval ages
IMG_5287
@dododialogue
IMG_5293
Photo op on the roof of the museum
Dinner was a casual affair of chicken wings at a restaurant appropriately named 'Wings.' It was one of those tiny, discreet places located off an already tiny, discreet alleyway from the Royal Mile.

IMG_5307

Afterwards we scoped out BrewDog, a hip pub that serves craft beer from the brewery of the same name.

IMG_5421

We grabbed our pints and played Guess Who for two hours, haha. I'd forgotten how much fun Guess Who could be...and how slick that motherfucker Herman is. I am telling you, you can never go wrong with Herman. With his nondescript features and forgettable name, he will lead you on a blazing trail to eternal riches and glory.


That night we stayed at a quirky airbnb close to the city center. Our bedroom had high ceilings and a loft-style bed. I don't know what I loved more: the ridiculously comfortable bed or getting to make friends with Billie, the fluffiest cat ever.

IMG_5319

IMG_5317

IMG_5314

IMG_5331
I'm so fucking fluffy
We awoke with rumbling tummies the next morning. We scoped out a nearby greasy spoon and treated ourselves to full Scottish breakfasts.

IMG_5346
Black pudding, bacon, baked beans, sausage, and a hearty roll.
Feeling considerably jollier and a twinge more oily, we went for a hike up Arthur's Seat, which promised fantastic views of the city. The hike up was quite pleasant, other than a little bit of mud. But once we got to the top, the winds were incredible. I almost lost my footing a few times and climbing up to the peak was very tricky.

IMG_5350

IMG_5380

IMG_5388

IMG_5400

IMG_5406

IMG_5395

We spent the last of our hours in Edinburgh drinking tea and exploring beautiful St. Giles' Cathedral.

IMG_5423

IMG_5426

Edinburgh was an enchanting place to visit. I'd highly recommend it to history buffs and anyone who appreciates gorgeous architecture. Pip pip cheerio!

Sunday, February 02, 2014

Glasgow: first impressions

In no particular order:

Goodbye, Rose's money. Everything -  cabs, meals, services, clothing/misc goods - seems to be about 30-40% on average more expensive here than in the States. Factor that in with the travel plans I am making and 2014 is already looking to be a bleak financial year for my savings account. But the unexpected kicker atop all of this? My corporate apartment is located about half a block from the Glaswegian equivalent of the Magnificent Mile. In the span of five minutes I can walk to Topshop, LUSH, the Body Shop, and a plethora of other stores that like to party hard with my credit card. I keep glancing at prices and thinking "Oh, that's quite reasonable" before realizing it's all in pounds, not USD. Also, my UK laptop is trying to convince me to spellcheck realizing with "realising".

I am surrounded by stunning architecture. It is a wide-angle-lens-owner's wet dream. 






Wet with rain, that is. So far it has rained about 50% of the time I've been outside. The threat of precipitation seems to loom above the other 50% of the time. There were a few glorious hours of sunshine and blue sky this morning which left me jonesing for more. Overall I'm pleased with the weather here and prefer it much over to the Chiberian tundra whence I came. 

Everything is smaller. Most noticeably, the portions, and second-most-noticeably, the people. (Though I suppose it would make little sense if that didn't hold true.) The cars, the homes, the street lanes all seem a fraction of what I'm used to in the States - especially since I lived in Texas for the better part of two years, where all of the above are bigger even by US standards. 

Also, Glasgow in general feels much, much smaller than Chicago - in the span of a day and a half I think I already have formed a somewhat good idea of the city and can orient myself fairly quickly using local landmarks. The boy and I also went on a run today to explore a bit; you can see that we covered quite a bit of the city ground with 5 miles.



People are extremely kind and I keep suspecting they want money from me when they really don't. Examples include the immigrations officer at the airport, waiters & waitresses at restaurants, and random Glaswegians I ask for directions from on the street. They are all incredibly helpful and polite. Even the people who do want money from me - cab drivers, beggars - are extremely cordial. I'm feelin' the love, Glasgow!

Glaswegians aren't workout fanatics...at least not in public. On my run today I saw a grand total of 3 other runners. In Chicago that number would easily have been 30. I also don't see people wearing sneakers, yoga pants, North Face, and other athletic/lounge wear which are pretty much ubiquitous in the Midwest. People here seem to dress for appearances rather than comfort, which I can certainly get behind. The boy, on the other hand...

That's it for now. I have a few more photos to share but unfortunately the internet in my unit isn't the best for uploading. I'm hoping to get my hands on a 3G dongle to fix that issue. More soon!

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Becoming Homeless, or How I Stopped Worrying and Managed to Get Free Movers



Yeehawing in our U-Haul

When I first got the news that I'd be going to Scotland, the first thought that popped into my head was, "Yippeeee!". The second was "Wait, do they have bibimbap in Glasgow?" (they don't) and the third, "Fuck. I don't want to move."

So for a little while, in spite of all the hand-flapping and beaming and proclamations of "When I get to Scotland I'm totally gonna be the female version of Mel Gibson in Braveheart!!!!", I secretly still had my heels dug into the ground. You see, I had just moved in with the boy seven months ago. In that time we painted the entire place anew, picked out a few pieces of furniture together, arranged the electronics to our liking, and were generally having a swell time living there. The condo was our comfy, cheery little nest in this great big city. The thought of disassembling everything, boxing it all up and shoving the contents of our happy place into a soulless storage unit was enough to make me reconsider the assignment altogether.

But then as soon as I got back from winter vacation, I told myself to put my on my big girl panties, count my blessings (you're going to Scotland, butthead) and start packing.

The silver lining of packing is that it forces you to prune each and every one of your possessions. Old jewelry and bags, 5k t-shirts, bell-bottom jeans, cute-but-horribly-painful-stilettos, my Aragorn action figurine, books from college...I found it surprisingly easy to forgo feelings of sentimental value, dismiss wonderings of "Maybe one day I'll use/wear/read this..." and toss a good amount of my things into the donation pile. Still, despite filling many bags with items to give away, the boy and I still managed to amass a fairly substantial amount of boxes and furniture to put into storage. Questions like "Whose idea was it to buy a cement coffee table again?" and "Why do I have four different hair brushes?" were asked, but the world may never know the answers to them.

Somewhere along the way we made the decision to not hire movers. After all, we were two young and relatively fit people, the move didn't require going up and down stairs, and the freight elevator in our building was rented out for a solid 3-hour block anyway. We figured we'd just take our time, save some money and get in a good workout. 

All of that logic seemed sound until moving day arrived last Saturday. We both woke up feeling tired - the boy from his last week on the client site and me from coming down with a cold, it was 10 degrees Fahrenheit outside, and the stacks of cardboard boxes suddenly seemed like they'd tripled in quantity overnight. I began to feel quite stupid as I stared at it all. Should we have hired movers after all? Were we in over our heads?

There wasn't time to ponder this for long as we were on a tight schedule. So we carried on with the day's plan. We rode the L up to Fullerton to pick up our U-Haul and navigated back very slowly and carefully, wary of the icy roads and the extra width our fatass truck required. We pulled up to the loading area of our condo building at 11:50 AM, exactly ten minutes before our time slot for the elevator was due to begin. I hopped out to help the boy bring the U-Haul into reverse when I was approached by a distressed-looking couple.

"Hey there - are you the ones who are moving in today from noon to three?"

"Moving out, but yes - we have that time slot."

"Ok, uh well, we're the ones who rented out the freight elevator from 9 AM until noon. And well, our movers reaaaally messed up their timing... and they are just showing up now."

"Oh?"

"Yeah...so - we were sorta wondering - do you think we could share the freight elevator and both move in at this time? We're only on the fourth floor."

What? Was I on candid camera? This was an absurd request. We had paid the building's $150 fee to have exclusive use of the freight elevator from 12 to 3 PM, just as they had for the morning slot. We also had a strict deadline to meet for unload at the storage unit that evening. And we were already tight on time with just the two of us moving a Mt. Everest of cardboard. Sharing the only freight elevator - the biggest bottleneck of the moving process - was out of the question.

However, I had been hit with the case of the cannot-say-nos and could only sputter. "I - uh - well - er -" 

Meanwhile, the boy was still in the U-Haul, which was still jutting diagonally across the street, and was frantically mouthing "No no no no" and shaking his head. I got the hint, gathered my wits about me and turned to the couple. 

"Sorry to hear your movers are so late, that stinks. Unfortunately, we're on a tight schedule and cannot share the elevator with you during our move." They looked defeated but nodded like that was the answer they were expecting to hear and walked away. I got back to the task on hand of directing the truck.

A few minutes later, just as the boy had finished backing our U-Haul into the loading area, 4th floor couple's movers pulled up their enormous Penske truck and seemed confused as to why there was already another truck in the loading space. Some mass confusion ensued between the two trucks, two doormen who were rotating shifts, 4th floor couple, the two movers who were three hours late, and the boy and me. After a few minutes of chaos, the boy and I said to the group:

"Here's the situation. You have ten minutes left on your 9 AM to 12 PM elevator slot. Technically your truck should be here and not ours for the next ten minutes, but I think we can all agree that it'd a waste of time to switch them out to unload ten minutes' worth of furniture from your truck." Nods all around.

"We have a tight deadline and want to move out as quickly as possible. We're not willing to share the elevator, but we think we'll be done in less than three hours and would be happy to give whatever time we have left to you in our slot." 4th floor couple brightened upon hearing this. Not all hope was lost - maybe they could still move in today after all.

At this point we paused and looked deliberately at the two movers who have just showed up three hours late for their gig. "But...it's just the two of us moving. It'd go a lot faster if we had some help." 


Before I go on, let me pause and describe the two movers. We'll call them Tweedledee and Tweedledum. Tweedledee was heavyset and had a tattoo of a dollar sign on his face. Tweedledum was older with white hair, thin as a rail, and looked like he'd escaped from a retirement home to make some sweet side cash. 

Tweedledee picked up on the hint and immediately leaned in, all cool and hush-hush. "Well, ya know, we could help take care of you, as long as you help take care of us, ya know? Throw twenty or thirty bucks our way?"

Now 4th floor couple went from looking miserable to angry. Their movers showed up three hours late, brought on all of this confusion, and were now trying to do business with another group of tenants. The boy and I glanced at each other, knowing that we ultimately had the upper hand in the situation. 

"We'll think about it," we said lightly before walking away from the group and heading up to our unit to prepare the first load for the elevator.

Not five minutes passed before Tweedledee and Tweedledum appeared in our condo and announced that they were here to help us move, at no cost. Golly, how generous.

And so the move began. I barely did much beyond give instructions and move some of the lighter boxes and items. Most of my attempts to help were thwarted with "Here, let me get that for you, missy"s. Truth be told, things probably did go faster when I was out of the way; Tweedledee proved to be an ox and was able to lift heavy boxes I could barely budge with enviable ease. I felt like I should've put on a bathrobe and waltzed around with a flute of champagne. 

So that is the story of how we managed to score free movers and load all our shit into the U-Haul from our 30th floor unit in just over an hour's worth of time. Sounds pretty awesome - and for the most part it really was, except for the fact that Tweedledee and Tweedledum's motivation was to get us moved out as quickly as possible, not necessarily as well. As a result of their speedy handling, a few pieces of furniture were scratched along the way. I'm also not too optimistic about the state of the contents of a few boxes marked 'fragile'. Despite their rough work, we left a generous tip to show our appreciation - labor is still labor and we were much better off with their assistance than otherwise. I just won't be calling the company they work for, All My Sons, the next time I'm moving in the Chicagoland area. Something tells me 4th floor couple won't be calling them either.

After the hard part was finished, the rest of the move was as smooth as a baby's bottom. The boy's brother arrived in town in time to accompany us out on the drive to Elgin where our storage unit awaited. We were in good spirits and still had plenty of energy so unloading the truck into our 14x10 only took about an hour and a half. Ravenous and feeling accomplished, we wrapped everything up just as the sun was disappearing, put our trucker hats back on, and drove our now-empty U-Haul to the nearest well-Yelped Mexican restaurant, where we rewarded ourselves with a feast of tacos.

The boy and I have been shacking up at his brother's ever since Saturday. It feels weird and liberating to have most of my worldly possessions locked up far far away. The world is my oyster and I'm ready to take it on - now with a lot less baggage!